Heading South to Stavanger
After a wonderful stay in Bergen, we are headed South to explore Stavanger and the surrounding region. We loved Bergen and cannot wait to go back some day.
After a wonderful stay in Bergen, we are headed South to explore Stavanger and the surrounding region. We loved Bergen and cannot wait to go back some day.
After a wonderful stay in Bergen, we are headed South to explore Stavanger and the surrounding region. We loved Bergen and cannot wait to go back some day.
We had a brilliant lunch post Bergen aquarium near Bryggen with our family before J&B headed to catch the bus for Stavanger. Tomorrow they’ll be on the hike of their life making their way up to Pulpit Rock. Our waiter was incredible and bought us a round when the fryer broke and our food took longer than normal. This was a great gift as beer and cider are extremely expensive in Norway even by South Florida standards. The food was worth the wait and I enjoyed my fish an chips along with my cider.
Post lunch we hit the shops to find some useful souvenirs. The Mayor found a nice knife he can use for fishing while Goalielocks selected a viking horn that sounds a bit like a kazoo. The kazoo piece wasn’t intentional, so we’ll be looking for another viking horn for the house. Jake got a nice Norwegian flag he can hang in his room.
After two ciders at lunch, my favorite local coffee shop Dromedor was calling my name. Not too far geographically from the tourist hub, but miles away in terms of its customer base. This is a great local spot with quality coffee and pastries. I have quite enjoyed their lattes these past couple of days in Bergen.
For dinner our kids wanted frozen pizzas, which was a complete godsend. Food is extremely expensive in Norway and this was a perfectly economical way to feed the kids. Post Pizza we headed to the wold famous fish market to meet J&M (my older bro and family), my grandma and my parents.
They were finishing up their dinner and afterwards we headed for dessert and shuffleboard. We ended up at the same restaurant where we ate and drank yesterday as it had several shuffleboard tables where the kids could play and not interrupt all of the diners’ dinners.
After two rousing shuffleboard tournaments, Priya and Zak and I emerged as champions. Somehow I managed to figure out how to score a couple of points, which was enough for me to be successful. The kids had a blast and enjoyed their desserts throughout the tournament.
After shuffleboard, we said adieu to our favorite spot, Bergenhus Bryggeri, and headed out to walk the city. For the first time, we headed up Kong Oscars Gate where X&P found an awesome and cheap hot dog stand. The group continued to make friends with dog owners and their dogs. Norwegians love their dogs and take them everywhere. Their dogs are meticulously groomed and extremely well behaved.
As the sun started to descend in the sky, we headed back to our AirBnB to pack for our trip to Stavanger. We have absolutely loved our time in Bergen and will be returning to this wonderful city hopefully soon.
We started our morning of 9,000 steps with a ride up to Mt. Floyen on the funicular. Once up the mountain, we hiked around the lake and through the forest. The views of the city, nearby islands and the North Sea were incredible. Thankfully, they had some coffee and cold water in the gift shop for a post hike refreshment.
Post Mt. Floyen, we got on a bus and headed to Mt. Ulricken. We headed up the gondola to see Bergen from the city’s highest peak. Once at the top, we hiked up to the mountain’s peak. The mountain top was home to a farm and several small lakes. The hike was exhausting, but well worth the hard work.
Today was all about exploring Borgund, Husom and Laerdal, which is where my dad’s family emigrated from in the 19th century. We started our day off with some scrambled eggs and bacon in the cabin, which were absolutely delicious. The cost of food in Norway is outrageously expensive, so we’re trying to eat in whenever possible. Food at the restaurant is taxed at 25% whereas food purchased in the grocery store is 12%, which makes for a big difference in cost.
After our protein filled breakfast, we set out to meet my parents and brothers’ families at the Borgund Stave Church. The drive, like most in Norway, was spectacular. The landscape here is absolutely amazing and awe inspiring. Our timing was spot on and shortly after we pulled into the museum parking lot in Borgund, my brothers’ cars followed.
There is a small musuem at the site with artifacts related to the staves churches of Norway and also relics from the Viking Era that had been excavated at nearby sites. As a history nerd, I was in complete heaven. Once we made our way through the museum, we headed to the church.
What is nice about this site is that the staff monitors how many people are in the church and prevents the church from being overcrowded. This ensures you have ample time and space to view the church and explore the grounds without being overrun by other tourists. Their was a large group in the church when we arrived, so we started to hike the Sverrestigen, part of the Kongevegan (King’s Road.) My grandma, at 87 years old, killed the hike. I had Jacob escort her up the hill as the the terrain, comprised of grass, mud, rocks and tree roots, was a bit slipper and I didn’t want her to fall. If you are wondering what the benefits of walking 3-5 miles daily are, here it is. My Grandma T able to hike the Norwegian hillsides at 87 without so much as breaking a sweat.
The stave church was amazing. It is very dark inside and modestly decorated with much of the regalia of it’s Catholic era long gone. The details and intricacy of the woodwork and carvings are beyond compare. Interestingly, this church, like the stave church in Undredal, combines christian symbolism with pagan symbolism. This simply does not exist in churches outside of Norway. There were even Rune letters carved into the door perhaps by a parishioner who had become bored during the service.
After exploring the church, we explored the church and cemetery grounds it was surreal knowing that these were the very soil our ancestors had walked before emigrating to the Untied States. Jacob and I completed the entirety of the Vindhellavegen trail from Borgund to Husom. Meanwhile Luke and the other two waited for us at a picnic table. The Vindhellavegen drops you right into Husum (Husom) where our family had its farm. The Husom Store and hotel are found here as well. We hiked back from Husum to Borgund on the Vidhellavegen taking a steeper, rockier short cut of a climb back to the church.
I’m sure our legs will hurt tomorrow, but the view and experience were well worth the pain. Post hike we headed to the Husum farm and then on to Laerdal. I loved seeing my dad on this part of the trip. You could see that he really enjoyed seeing where his family originated. Another humbling, wonderful day in glorious Norway.
Last night we took the Flamsbana (Flam Railway) up to Myrdal and back down. Myrdal is only accessible by train either the Flamsbana or the Bergen Line. The quaint mountain station is 867 meters above sea level. The round trip from Flam to Myrdal takes a little over two hours. The views from the railway are second to none.
We loved the view of the mountains, waterfalls, the Flam River and the Flam Valley from the tracks. The highlight of the train ride is the stop at the Kjosfossen Waterfall at almost 2,200 feet above sea level. This waterfall is fed by Reinunga Lake and is truly spectacular waterfall with a total fall of over 738 feet. The only part viewable from the train and the nearby platform is the upper falls. The falls continue under the platform and rail bridge plunging into the gorge. Additionally, there is also a power plant on the Kjosfossen waterfall that powers the Flam Railway.
As part of the trip on the Flamsbana, there is a 5 minute stop ascending the tracks to Myrdal and a 5 minute stop on the descent to Flam. Importantly, there is significant spray on the platform, so it isn’t a bad idea to have your camera and phone in a protective bag. Additionally, during this stop there are three actresses, who appears as Huldra. In Scandinavian folklore, Huldra is a seductive forest creature that lures men and takes them into the mountain to marry her. The dance is performed to traditional music and adds to the ambiance.
This train trip has multiple departures daily and costs about $58 per adult ticket and $29 for a kid’s ticket. It is absolutely worth the price and is a must do if you ever travel to Flam.
Before we prepared for bed this evening, I took some pictures of the Aurlandsfjord with my new camera. These photos of the fjord at night were all taken after midnight in natural light. I will say that being in the land of the midnight sun throws off your internal clock. You don’t want to sleep when it looks like it is 6:00 pm. Worse than that, the kids don’t want to go to sleep when the sun is still up, but I digress. I am happy with how they turned out and look forward to experimenting more with photography at night.
Paul McCartney sang 39 songs on Friday night as he opened the second leg of his One on One 2017 tour here in Miami. He was amazing. I’m already scheming to try and see him again in September, hey a girl can hope….
One of the most amazing performances of the evening was Live and Let Die. The second to last song before the encore, Live and Let Die was a thrilling, adrenaline filled experience including the pyrotechnics. The band’s performance was absolutely savage. I had to keep reminding myself that he’s in his 70s…. I pray that when I am in my mid-70s, I am that youthful, agile and energetic. Paul is an absolute beast.
In honor of our 16th wedding anniversary yesterday, this song is for you Luke. I’m amazed by you each and every day.